Conforming loan
- Largest loan allowed
- $832,750
- Down payment needed
- $667,250
- Rulebook
- Fannie Mae / Freddie Mac
$667,250
Cash for the down payment
Above the conforming limit
For homes priced past the conforming limit, with your tax returns or your bank statements.
The problem
Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac only buy loans up to a set size each year. For 2026 that conforming limit is $832,750 for a one-unit home in most counties and up to $1,249,125 in high-cost areas (FHFA). Borrow a dollar more and you are in jumbo territory, where each lender writes its own rules.
That's why two lenders can give the same buyer two completely different answers. One wants 20% down and two years of tax returns. Another takes 10% down, or counts bank deposits for a business owner. Big banks usually offer their one jumbo program and stop there.
As a broker, I shop the jumbo programs across a wide network of lenders and match you to the one built for your file. The two I use most are a traditional jumbo, qualified on tax returns and W-2s, and a bank statement jumbo for self-employed buyers whose returns undersell them.
The bank statement version is a non-QM (non-traditional) loan. Non-QM means the loan sits outside the federal "qualified mortgage" rules that standard loans follow, usually because income is documented a different way. The lender still has to verify you can repay. Rates on the non-QM (non-traditional) version typically run 1% to 2% higher than traditional loans because of the added risk, so we only use it when your returns can't do the job.
Side by side
Here is a $1.5 million purchase in a county with the $832,750 limit. With 10% down, the loan is $1,350,000, well past the conforming line, so a jumbo is the only single-loan option.
$667,250
Cash for the down payment
$150,000
Cash for the down payment
A jumbo loan lets this buyer keep $517,250 more in the bank on the same home.
One-unit home, county limit $832,750 (2026). Closing costs and reserves not included.
Pick the right tool
Both get you past the conforming limit. They prove your income in different ways, and picking the right one decides how much house you qualify for.
Choose this if your tax returns show the income you need.
Choose this if your write-offs make your returns look smaller than your business really is.
Bottom line
I always run the traditional jumbo first, because when it works, it usually costs less. If your returns fall short, the bank statement version counts what actually moves through your accounts. I walk through that math in Why Tax Write-Offs Shrink Your Mortgage.
Real math
A salaried move-up buyer, a business owner with small returns, and a buyer who would rather not drain savings. Each one solves it a different way.
Scenario 1 · Moving up past the limit
Both on salary, selling their first home. Shopping for a $1.4M home.
Income inputs
Qualifying result
$30,000/mo
Qualifying monthly income
Salaried income counts in full on a traditional jumbo. This is the simplest jumbo file there is.
Watch for: Reserves are counted after closing, so plan the sale proceeds and the down payment together.
Scenario 2 · Strong business, small tax returns
Her returns show $210,000 a year after write-offs. Her business account deposits $960,000 a year.
Income inputs
Qualifying result
$40,000/mo
Qualifying monthly income, bank statement jumbo
On her returns she would qualify on $17,500 a month. Counting deposits instead more than doubles it.
Watch for: The business name on the statements has to match the application exactly. One business, one account.
Scenario 3 · Keeping cash in the bank
Plenty of income and savings, but he wants to keep his cash invested instead of putting 20% down.
Income inputs
Qualifying result
$180,000
Cash that stays in his accounts
Two loans instead of one let him put 10% down on a home where a single loan wanted more.
Watch for: The second mortgage usually carries a higher rate and its own payment. Both payments count when you qualify.
Get my options
Three quick taps and an optional note. I read every one myself and tell you which path fits, usually the same day.
What are you looking to do?
How do you earn most of your income?
When would you like to buy or close?
Optional. A sentence or two about your situation helps me come to our call prepared.
Where should I reach you?
Your answers are already filled in below, so I’ll know your situation before we talk.
Rather just talk?
Who this is for
Jumbo buyers are not all millionaires. Most are professionals buying a normal home in an expensive market.
Second or third home purchase, selling a smaller home and stepping up past the conforming limit. Lake Norman is full of these.
Strong companies, smart CPAs and tax returns that show less than the business earns. The bank statement jumbo was built for you.
High income, sometimes a new practice or a recent move. Jumbo loans are routine for doctors buying in good school districts.
Base salary plus bonus or commission. Lenders want to see that variable pay has a track record before they count it.
Moving from a high-cost state into Charlotte, Nashville, Austin or Florida, and buying bigger than the local limit.
A lake house, a beach condo or a mountain place. Second homes need you to use them yourself, not rent them full time.
The 80/10/10
An 80/10/10 splits the purchase three ways: a first mortgage for 80% of the price, a second mortgage for 10%, and your 10% down payment. It is the move when cash is tight or when you would rather keep money invested.
It also helps when a single jumbo program wants more than 10% down for your credit score or loan size. Splitting the debt can keep the first mortgage in a better pricing tier.
The second mortgage has its own rate, usually higher than the first, and its own payment.
The lender adds both payments to your debts, so income still has to cover the full picture.
Many buyers pay down the smaller second mortgage with a bonus or sale proceeds and are left with one loan.
Requirements
These are the typical terms across the jumbo programs I can access.
Purchase and refinance. Reserves are money left in your accounts after closing; retirement and investment accounts can often count toward them.
Checklist
Watch-outs
Jumbo loans close fine when they are set up right. These are the problems I see most.
Down payment, closing costs and months of reserves all come out of the same accounts. I add the total before you make an offer, not after.
A large transfer two months ago needs a source. Keep the statements or the sale documents that explain it.
If your returns qualify you, the traditional jumbo is usually cheaper. Make sure someone actually reads your returns first.
High-end homes are harder to value, and some programs want a second appraisal on larger loans. Leave room in the contract for it.
A new car or a boat changes the math right up to closing day. Wait until the keys are in your hand.
FAQ
Any loan bigger than the conforming limit for your county. For 2026, that limit is $832,750 for a one-unit home in most of the country and up to $1,249,125 in high-cost areas (FHFA). It is the loan amount that matters, not the price. A $1 million home with 20% down is an $800,000 loan, which is under the limit in most counties, so it isn't a jumbo at all. The same home with 10% down is a $900,000 loan and is. I check your county's limit before we look at programs, because sometimes a slightly bigger down payment keeps you in conforming territory.
Yes. Across the programs I can access, 10% down is the minimum on a jumbo loan, and it is available on both the traditional and the bank statement versions. Your credit score and loan size decide whether a program lets you go that low, and some programs ask for more down at lower scores or bigger amounts. If a single loan wants more than you want to put down, an 80/10/10 splits the financing into a first and second mortgage so you can still put 10% down. Either way, you will also need reserves after closing, so the cash you need is more than the down payment alone.
On the programs I can access, jumbo loans start at a 660 credit score. A higher score does more than get you approved. It usually opens better pricing and lower down payment options, so a 740 and a 680 can get very different offers on the same home. If you are close to a pricing break, a few weeks of paying down credit cards can be worth real money, and I will tell you if that is the case before you apply. Late payments in the last year or two matter more than the score itself, so tell me about anything like that up front.
Typically 3 to 6 months on the programs I use, and sometimes more on the largest loans. Reserves are counted in months of your full new payment, including taxes, insurance and any association dues, and the money has to be left over after your down payment and closing costs. Checking and savings count. Retirement and brokerage accounts can often count too, sometimes at a reduced value. The mistake I see is buyers adding up their down payment and forgetting reserves, then finding out late that they are short. I add it all up for you at the start.
Yes. If your tax returns show enough income, a traditional jumbo is usually the cheaper route, and I always check that first. If your write-offs make your returns look small, a bank statement jumbo qualifies you on 12 months of personal or business bank statements instead. Business deposits are usually counted after an expense factor, often 50%, and personal account deposits can sometimes count in full. It's a non-QM (non-traditional) loan, so the rate typically runs 1% to 2% higher than a traditional loan. For a lot of owners that trade is worth it, because their write-offs save them more in taxes than the rate costs.
Across the jumbo programs I can access, up to $5 million. Above that, Super Jumbo programs take select loans higher, and the rules get tighter: more reserves, stronger credit and sometimes more down. The bigger the loan, the more the lender looks at your total financial picture, not just your income. If you are shopping in the $3 million to $5 million range, plan on a longer conversation about assets and reserves up front, and I will tell you early which programs fit.
Not always. In my experience, a traditional jumbo for a strong borrower can price close to a conforming loan, and sometimes better, because lenders compete for these clients. The bank statement version is different: it typically runs 1% to 2% higher than a traditional loan because of the added risk. Your credit score, down payment and the loan size all move the price. I compare the programs side by side for your file instead of quoting a national average that may not apply to you.
Yes. Plenty of jumbo buyers refinance when rates drop, or move from a bank statement jumbo to a traditional jumbo once their tax returns catch up with the business. I look at the cost of refinancing against what you'd save and tell you straight whether it's worth it. If your loan has a prepayment penalty, we review that before you lock, so there are no surprises later.
Keep reading
Sources
Program terms are typical ranges across the programs I can access and can change. Not a commitment to lend. Dale Corley, mortgage broker, NMLS #1547543.
Start an application and tell me what you want to buy. I'll tell you straight whether a traditional jumbo, a bank statement jumbo or an 80/10/10 gets you there, and what it will take to close.
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